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Thinking about getting new lights for the grow. Just watched this review - what are your thoughts?

WHY YOU SHOULD CLONE 

Cloning is a tried and true method for continued success in your garden. To keep your favorite strain in rotation you will need to take clones. A clone is a cutting (a small piece of plant that’s been cut off) that has re-established roots and is a genetic replication of the mother plant. This guide will take you through the steps to successfully root a cutting. Once you’ve mastered the art of cloning you’ll be well on your way to keeping your favorite genetics in rotation and having a self-sustaining garden. No more buying clones from questionable outlets or worrying about bringing in pests from someone else’s garden.



Mother Plants

A mother plant is a plant that has been specifically grown to provide cuttings for starting new plants i.e. clones. The cutting will be genetically identical to the mother, which is why you want to choose a mother that is a strong grower with good genetics. In other words, a healthy plant. Using a fertilizer formulated for the needs of mother plants, like MotherPlant brand fertilizer, is important for the successful rooting of clones. A good fertilizer for mother plants is one that limits excess nitrogen and provides the important building blocks for carbohydrate accumulation. The excess nitrogen contained in standard fertilizers results in low carbohydrate reserves and poor rooting of clones.



MotherPlant fertilizer is formulated to strengthen the cell walls of plants, improve water holding capacity and stress tolerance. This results in energized cuttings that are better prepared to generate healthy new roots. MotherPlant nutrients can be found online and in hydro stores across the United States. For the serious grower that wants to successfully clone their favorite strain, or just keep their garden going, this is an important step. Your mother plant should be watered a few hours before you plan to take cuttings. This ensures that the cuttings will be well nourished and hydrated, preparing them for successful cloning. It’s also recommended to spray Clonex Mist on the chosen donor sights a few days before taking clones. This will help to stimulate root development in your cuttings.



Supplies 



Taking a clone can be as simple, or as complicated, as you want it to be. There are multiple techniques and products on the market for cloning. For this guide, we’re going with a simple but effective method. The following are items you’ll need to successfully clone.



• Mother Plant 

• Rooting Gel 

• Shot Glass 

• Scalpel or Razor 

• Scissors aren’t recommended as they can crush the cutting’s delicate tissue. 

• Be careful not to cut yourself when taking your cutting. 

• Starter Cubes 

• Propagation Tray 

• Humidity Dome 

• Clonex Mist



TAKING A CLONE 

Your mother plant is picked out and all your supplies are ready. Now it’s time to take some cuttings. 

Step 1. Sanitize Wash your hands. Then sterilize your equipment. Rubbing alcohol is an ideal choice for sterilizing. 



Step 2. Set up your work area. Have your items laid out and ready to go. A few things you’ll want to do now include: 

• Pour Clonex Rooting Gel into your shot glass. 

• Take packaging off your Starter Cubes 

• Root Riot Starter Cubes are available in both a ready-to-use propagation tray and bags of 50 or 100 count. 



Step 3. Choose your cuttings. You’ll want to choose a branch that looks healthy. Things you’re looking for in a cutting are: 

• Branches on the lower part of the plant 

• Strong growing tips 

• Multiple nodes (leaf nodes are where the leaf connects to the stem) 



Step 4. Take your cutting. Once you’ve chosen a branch, use your scalpel to remove the branch. You’ll want to cut just below the node (the area from which leaves grow) at a 45-degree angle. 



Step 5. Dip the cutting in Clonex Rooting Gel. Dip it directly into the rooting gel you’ve added to your shot glass. Make sure the entire cut area, and its surrounding stem, is covered in the rooting gel. This will stop air from affecting the cut surface area. Air exposure at this point can cause air bubbles that will prevent your cutting from taking up water and eventually rooting. At this point you should clip the fan leaves, reducing the leaf area by 50%.



Step 6. Place the cutting into your Root Riot Starter Cube. Once you’ve finished taking your cuttings and placed them in a propagation tray it’s time to add your humidity dome. You do not want to have leaves pressed up against the dome walls or stuck between the dome and the tray. Make sure you’ve spaced your cuttings to avoid either of these from happening. 



Step 7. Spray your cuttings. Place tray under suitable lighting. Spray your cuttings with Clonex Mist every other day to ensure they don’t dry out. Beyond that, leave the cuttings alone. Most plants will root in 7 – 10 days, but some could take up to 2 weeks or longer. When you see roots coming out of the cube then you’re ready to transplant.



TRANSPLANTING 

Once you see roots coming out of your starter cubes it’s time to transplant. Most growers tend to use a cup (like the small, red Solo cups) to transplant their newly rooted clones into. The clones are still fragile at this point and should be treated the same as they were when they were cuttings. 



Step 1. Prep Fill your cup halfway with your chosen soil or soilless mix. Sprinkle Clonex Root Maximizer, a mycorrhizae, on to the exposed roots. Root Maximizer will help to extend the overall reach of your plant’s roots. This means your plant will be able to reach water and nutrients that might not be available otherwise. Basically, it helps the plant get more of what it needs to thrive. 



Step 2. Transplant Place your rooted clone in the center of the cup and fill in the remaining space with your soil, or soilless medium, and pack it just over the top of the starter cube. The soil should be packed gently so as not to disrupt the delicate roots or stress the clone, but also tightly so that the clone will not tip over. 



Step 3. Feed Water your clone with Clonex Clone Solution, a clone-specific nutrient. A regular Grow formula at this stage can burn your plant, most likely resulting in a stunted or dead clone.



Clonex Rooting Gel has been helping growers successfully clone for three decades. Billions of clones are proof of the effectiveness of using Clonex. 



Clonex Rooting Gel Clonex Rooting Gel contains a unique proprietary formula in a tenacious gel which will remain in contact around the stem, actually sealing the cut tissue and then supplying the hormones needed to promote root cell development. It is manufactured under strict pharmaceutical laboratory conditions and is, consequently, years ahead of old fashioned hormones and powders. 



Clonex Gel is recommended over powder rooting agents. Powder rooting agents: 

• Can and will be blown around 

• Will wash off the stem when watered 

• Contains talc - a carcinogen Clonex Rooting Gel is EPA registered in all 50 states plus Washington D.C. and Puerto Rico. 



This means it’s approved for use on all crops, including food or ingestible crops. It’s also the only rooting gel approved by the Colorado and Washington Dept. of Agriculture for propagating medical plants. Clonex Rooting Gel is used at the beginning of propagation to help seal your cuttings delicate root tissue and provide the necessary environment for successful rooting. Clonex Clone Solution Clonex Clone Solution is specifically formulated for rooted clones and seedlings. It contains a special blend of minerals and vitamins that encourages rapid root development. Clonex Clone Solution contains specific micro nutrients, and the highest quality minerals including Nitrogen, Phosphorus, Potassium, and Calcium, plus Vitamin B1 which reduces the risk of transplant shock. It is formulated to nourish new root cells in plants. Used with Clonex Rooting Gel, it encourages rapid root development while helping to minimize stress. 



Clonex Mist Clonex Mist is a foliar spray that is for both mother plants and clones to stimulate root development. It is formulated to boost the health and vigor of young plants while promoting robust root development and the elongation of root hairs. Independent trials showed that the use of Clonex Mist vs. water alone to mist cuttings resulted in: 

• Rooting up to 10 days sooner 

• 30% longer roots 

• Up to 156% more roots



Clonex Root Maximizer 

Clonex Root Maximizer is a mycorrhizae fungus product which increases the surface area of your clone’s roots. Mycorrhizae fungus extends the plants reach, allowing it to get more of what it needs. Mycorrhizae fungus is a network of filaments that grow in and around the plant root cells. This forms a mass that extends considerably beyond the plant’s root system, making the plant stronger and more resistant to stress. It even protects your plant against unwanted pathogens. Clonex Root Maximizer puts life into your soil by adding bountiful amounts of mycorrhizae fungi, beneficial bacteria and Trichoderma that combine to improve the overall health and vitality of plants.



Root Riot Plant Starter Cubes

Root Riots are ideal for rooting plant cuttings! They are pH balanced and pre-moistened, so they are ready to use right out of the bag or in the tray. Made from Canadian peat moss, Root Riot cubes have a great spongy texture which retains the perfect air/water ratio for healthy, rapid root growth. 



MotherPlant Nutrients 

MotherPlant nutrients are formulated for mother, or stock plants but can be used throughout the vegetative cycle of your plants with impressive results. It contains the perfect diet for mother plants without excess nitrates. Rich bio-organics are added to improve the uptake of nutrients and strengthen the plant’s natural immunity resulting in strong, vibrant clones. 



Rockwool Conditioning Solution 

Europonic Rockwool Conditioning Solution is an advanced formulation of ingredients that stabilizes and adjusts the pH of rockwool for maximum nutrient utilization by plants. It is ideal for pre-conditioning rockwool and stonewool cubes before starting clones or transplants.

If you are in the SoCal area near the IE, dont be shy - come on by and check us out. We carry some of the most extensive lineups of nutrients, amendments, additives, soils, and lighting to fit your needs! Our warehouse stocks over 4,000 items ready to ship or instore pickup today. Also offering free local deliveries**

You can browse our catalogs @ https://greenmilehydro.com 

Also, stay tuned for our FREE LIVE DIY series we are about to launch - both in-person, as well as on zoom.




** Free local delivery within 25mi radius - excludes heavy bulk items.

The Surprising Three-Part Base Nutrient System Veteran Growers Swear By
Many growers swear by their old-school formulations. And it’s like they say…
If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it.
But did you know that not every three-part base nutrient system is created equal? That’s right. Even if they’ve got the same obvious benefits — familiarity, flexibility, feeding program control — the subtle differences from brand to brand can add up to a massive variance in the quality of your crop.
That’s why we sell [b]Jungle Juice[/b]…
And why the demand for this base nutrient system never waivers.
Now, there are three questions growers ask us all the time before they make the switch:


What makes Jungle Juice different from other three-part base nutrient systems?


Should I use Jungle Juice or one of Advanced Nutrients' pH Perfect® lines for my grow?


What's the exact application of Jungle Juice?

We’re explaining it all right here…
So if you’re wondering whether Advanced Nutrients Jungle Juice is the right choice for your cannabis plants, then pay close attention to what comes next.

Every label carries three conspicuous numbers, usually right above or below the product name. These three numbers form what is called the fertilizer's N-P-K ratio — the proportion of three plant nutrients in order: nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P) and potassium (K).

By Dr. Lynette Morgan
[font='Memphis W01', Times, serif]What do the numbers and letters mean?[/font]
If you (vaguely!) remember the periodic table from high school chemistry, you know that N stands for Nitrogen, P for Phosphorus, and K for potassium. These nutrients are the three numbers on a fertilizer bag listed in order (N-P-K). So, a fertilizer that contains 5-10-10 means it has 5 percent nitrogen, 10 percent phosphorus (phosphate), and 10 percent potassium (potash). A “complete” fertilizer contains all three.



What do the different nutrients do?

Each nutrient plays a different role. Nitrogen boosts green leafy growth. “It’s like the gas pedal,” says John Esslinger, horticulture educator at Penn State Extension. “That’s why many lawn fertilizers are high in nitrogen to promote leafy growth.” Phosphorus helps strong roots form, so plants lacking in phosphorus may be purple-ish and slow-growing. Potassium helps promote vigorous growth and hardiness, so a deficit may result in wimpy fruit or spindly plants that fall prey to pests and diseases.



How do I pick a formula?

Now you’ve got some homework to do. “Before you add anything to your lawn or garden, get a soil test,” says Esslinger. “Otherwise, you have no idea where you’re starting from and what your soil needs or doesn’t need.” In fact, some nutrients, such as phosphorus, are good at staying in the soil; you may not need to add them every time you fertilize. And more is not better. It’s not only a waste of money to add stuff you don’t need—it’s also bad for the plants. For example, too much nitrogen will grow monster tomato plants, but you may not get any fruit. And really, then, what’s the point?

Get your soil test kit from a local garden center or your area’s coop extension service; they’re typically about $10 to $20, and you only need to do one every few years. The master gardener at the county extension service can help you decipher the results and explain how much of each nutrient you need to apply. A balanced fertilizer (with all the same numbers, such as 5-5-5) may be okay for many situations such as flower and vegetable gardens, but only a soil test will tell for sure.
[font=Charter, Georgia, Times, serif]Finally, your test also will include your soil’s pH, a measure of how acidic or alkaline your soil is. It’s another important aspect of soil fertility because if your pH is too high or too low, your plants may not be able to use the nutrients you apply, says Esslinger. Based on your test results, an application of lime to raise pH or sulfur to lower pH may be recommended.[/font]

Article 4-1 Nutrients Too Much or Too Little

[font=Lato, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif]Nutrients – Under and Over Use
By Dr. Lynette Morgan[/font]

Introduction
Nutrients are the basis of any hydroponic system and since we need to meet all of the plants nutritional requirements, it’s important to know what you are supplying and what can go wrong. With any nutrient solution the two factors to keep in mind are firstly the composition of your nutrient – does it contain all of the elements required for plant growth in the correct ratios. And secondly, with your balanced and complete nutrient solution, what strength or ‘EC’ should it be running at for your particular crop, stage of growth and type of hydroponic system, and how do we measure this.
[font=Lato, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif]The nutrient solution – composition
Many growers prefer to buy a ‘pre-mixed’ nutrient solution which simply needs to be diluted (for liquid concentrates) or dissolved in water before use. Often these ‘pre-made’ nutrients come in 2, 3, 4 or even more ‘parts’ so a grower can change the ratio of the mineral elements to allow for either vegetative or fruiting growth or for different crops. There are many excellent brands of these pre-mixed nutrients on the market, however, many growers have come across major problems when they try to use some of the ‘indoor plant food’ or other nutrients which have been designed for plants growing in soil or a pre fertilized potting mix. Often these types of products are not suitable for hydroponics because they are not designed to be a ‘complete plant food’. It is always preferable to buy a nutrient mix which is sold especially for ‘hydroponic’ use, and is a ‘complete’ plant food. To be ‘complete’ a hydroponic nutrient needs to have the essential elements for plant growth these are:[/font]

• Nitrogen (N)
  
• Potassium (K)
  
• Phosphorus (P)
  
• Calcium (Ca)
  
• Magnesium (Mg)
  
• Sulphur (S)
  
• Iron (Fe)
  
• Manganese (Mn)
  
• Copper (Cu)
  
• Zinc (Zn)
  
• Molybdate (Mo)
  
• Boron (B)
  
• Chlorine (Cl)
  

PDF Link

Hydroponics

Hydroponics is a word derived from Greek consisting of two words: ‘hydro’ meaning water and ‘ponos’ meaning labor. It is a method of crop production in which plants are grown without soil, and nutrients required for plant growth, are supplied through liquid nutrient solution. Plant roots may or may not be supported by artificial substrate such as perlite, vermiculite, rock wool, expanded clay, coconut coir, wooden fiber or a mixture of substrates like perlite and coconut coir (Figure 1).
 

 
 
[b]Figure 1. [/b]Dutch Bucket System with suspended clay balls.

Nutrient Management
Nutrient management is a method of using crop nutrients as efficiently as possible to improve the productivity without harming the environment. In hydroponics, nutrient management is a very necessary step. Total salt concentration, pH, alkalinity and nutrient concentration ratio are four main characteristics to focus on for nutrient management in soilless culture.
 
Water Analysis
The very first step for hydroponics is to have the water analyzed by a lab such as the Soil, Water and Forage Analytical Laboratory (SWAFL) at Oklahoma State University. Test for pH, electrical conductivity (EC) and alkalinity. Poor-quality water can cause nutrient toxicity or deficiency problems initially or later in production. Water naturally consists of salts like sodium, calcium, magnesium bicarbonates, chlorides and sulfates. These salts can affect EC and pH of the nutrient solution and should not be above the acceptable level (Table 1).


[font=Rubik, sans-serif][b]Table 1.[/b] Acceptable values for common nutrients found in water.[/font]
Sodium

• Share Fact Sheet 

• JUMP TO:
  
• Hydroponics
   
  
• Nutrient Management
   
  
• Water Analysis
   
  
• What is Total Salt Concentration?
   
  
• What is pH?
   
  
• Alkalinity
   
  
• Difference Between Soil and Soilless Culture
   
  
• EC Management
   
  
• pH Management
   
  
• Important Points
   
  
• Refreshing the Nutrient Solution
   
  
• Automatic Monitoring System
  

1. Fill the nutrient tank with tap or filtered water and add fertilizer. Base quantity on the manufacturer recommendation.
   
2. Calibrate the EC meter probe using the buffer solution.
   
3. Make sure the nutrient solution is stirred up and allow the reading to stabilize, which may take a couple of minutes.
   
4. If the reading is higher than the optimum level, dilute the solution by adding more water, then repeat step 3.
   
5. If the reading is below the optimum level, add nutrient concentrate until the optimum level is reached by repeating step 3.
   
6. Rinse the probe in tap water and store in probe-cleaning fluid.
   

1. Set the desired EC value of the solution.
   
2. Calibrate the pH meter probe using the buffer solution. Make sure the nutrient solution is stirred up and allow the reading to stabilize, which may take a couple of minutes.
   
3. If the pH reading is high, add phosphoric acid, citric acid, vinegar or pH down products slowly. Wait several minutes before adding more. Repeat until the pH reaches the optimum range.
   
4. If the pH is low, add potassium hydroxide, potassium carbonate or a pH up product slowly. Repeat until the pH reaches the optimum range.
   
5. Clean the probe and store in cleaning fluid.
   

1. pH should always be checked after getting the EC into the optimum range.
   
2. The pH and EC should be checked daily.
   
3. Check the pH and EC at the same time of day.
   
4. Water temperature of 72 to 75 F is optimal.
   

So, you’re thinking about growing marijuana and need to know more about grow lights? Whether you’re doing it legally in Colorado or performing a stealth operation in another state, the characteristics of your grow light will have a dramatic effect on the yield of your crops. The type of light also plays a role in your electricity costs. It’s important to understand exactly what to expect with each type of cannabis grow light available, so let’s take a look at some of the key factors that will help you decide which light to buy:
HID (High-Intensity Discharge) lights are the standard for cannabis growing. The most common HID lights for indoor grows are Metal Halide (MH) and High-Pressure Sodium (HPS). HID lights require more electricity and a larger upfront investment than other lighting alternatives, but they can also be considerably more powerful. If you choose an MH or HPS grow light, it’s important to have a high-functioning exhaust system due to the strong aroma of cannabis that will be coming from your grow room. HID lights also give off a lot of excess heat, and an effective exhaust system will help manage this issue.

High-Intensity Discharge
At different phases of the cannabis plant’s life cycle, different HID lights are recommended for the best results. Metal Halide lamps create a blue light that is well-suited for plants in the vegetation stage (this is the time when the plants begin to grow branches and leaves, still in the earlier part of the growing cycle). High-Pressure Sodium lights produce an orange/red light that helps stimulate the plant’s growth hormones during the flowering stage, which mimics autumn for an outdoor grow. HPS lights use high levels of energy but can make a strong impact on the yield during the flowering stage, so it is worthwhile to consider them. Some growers choose Ceramic Metal Halide (CMH) lights, which are in between MH and HPS lights regarding efficiency.
If you choose to go the HID route, you’ll need a ballast to plug it into the wall. You’ll also want to purchase a hood to reflect the light coming from your bulbs. Make sure to match the bulb wattage with the wattage of the lamp (a 600W HID lamp should only use 600W bulbs, etc.).

Fluorescent
Fluorescent lights are the second option. They come in two varieties: CFLs (compact fluorescent lights) and T5 lights. Both are less expensive and more energy efficient than HID lights, and they emit a wide spectrum of light, which is beneficial to the plants. In many cases, growers use fluorescent lights in conjunction with MH or HPS lamps to have a high-powered system that also exposes plants to a wide spectrum of light. Growing cannabis with only fluorescent lights is possible, but the yield will likely be smaller because the lights aren’t as powerful as a typical HID.

LED
A third option and one that is gaining traction in the cannabis industry is LED grow lights. LEDs are smaller and give off less heat than HPS lights, and they can increase yield with better energy efficiency. Because LEDs use less electricity than HPS and MH lights, they are becoming a popular alternative to the standard HID. Environmentally conscious growers also choose LEDs because they don’t contain mercury like HIDs. LEDs also don’t burn the plants like HIDs do when they are placed too close.
LED lights are more expensive than HIDs and require a larger upfront payment, but over a longer period of time, they will bring a higher return on investment due to the lower energy costs. In addition to the cost of keeping HID lamps on, growers will incur significant expenses on fans and exhaust to reduce the level of heat in the grow room. HPS and MH lights also require light bulbs to be changed more often than LED lights, another cost to consider.

Wattage Specs
When purchasing a lighting setup, make sure that the wattage of the bulbs is suitable for your room and your expected yield. Commercial growers tend to use bulbs with higher power than home growers because they need to produce higher yields. For a home grower, a single 1,000W light could be enough for six to eight plants, but purchasing a 400W and 600W lamp and spacing them out in the grow room could spread the light around for a better overall yield. Whether the plant is a sativa, indica, or hybrid can also play a role in the amount of wattage needed. Sativa plants use around 66 watts of light per square foot, while indicas use between 40 and 45 watts (hybrids fall in between at about 60 watts).



In general terms, more light produces more cannabis, but there’s no need to use too much power and run up the electricity bill. Whereas a commercial grower might have 20 or more 1,000W grow lamps in a room, combined with some additional fluorescent lights to give the plants a greater spectrum of light, a home grower could use just a single 400W or 600W light if they’re only trying to produce two plants in a small closet. For example, a 2′ x 2′ grow room would do fine with a 250W HID, but if the plants are spread over a 5′ x 5′ area, then a 1,000W lamp might do better.
If you’re choosing between a HID and an LED lamp, some pretty straightforward calculations can aid the decision-making process. As previously stated, LED lights are typically more expensive than HIDs, but they have lower monthly costs, which will offset the higher price tag. Spending $969 on a top-notch 600W LED light is a higher upfront investment than spending $300 to $500 on a 600W HPS, but the monthly electricity cost of using an HPS will be higher (also don’t forget you’ll need more fans and a more efficient exhaust system with HPS lights). During the vegetative stage, lamps will be on for 18 hours per day, and during flowering, they’ll be on for 12 hours per day. That’s a large electricity expense, and it’s worth crunching some numbers to see whether it is worth it to make the higher initial investment in an LED.

Be Discreet
It should also be pointed out that if you’re in a state where it’s illegal to grow cannabis, HID lights could potentially make the electric bill jump to the point where it would look suspicious to authorities. HPS lights might also be detectable by thermal imaging techniques used to find infrared heat, where LED lights don’t put out enough heat to be spotted. Having a smaller grow operation is one way to prevent any chance of getting “busted,” so keep all of these factors in mind if you’re in the market for a new lamp.
It’s quite easy to purchase grow lights on the internet. Since they are used for horticultural purposes beyond just cannabis growth, there are no laws against purchasing grow lights like there are with buying marijuana. A quick Amazon search for “cannabis grow light” will send you on your way to finding the lamp that’s right for you. There’s also this list of the best 10 LED grow lights. If you are in a state where cannabis is legal, it couldn’t hurt to stop in a local dispensary and ask the budtenders for some additional thoughts on which brands they prefer. The cannabis industry has a “help each other out” kind of vibe, so don’t hesitate to ask the experts their opinions. Good luck!